Anyone in Washington trying to understand the
relationship between religion and politics in Turkey today could do
worse than starting with a visit to the Smithsonian’s Sackler
gallery. On display there, until February 20, is “The Art of the Qur’an:
Treasures from the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts.”
The exhibit
features a number of lavishly decorated Korans collected by the Ottoman
Empire during its six-century rule over much of the Muslim world.
One,
seized by Suleiman the Magnificent from the tomb of a long-dead Mongol
ruler, has sprawling gold medallions set amidst lines of multi-colored
calligraphy.
Another,
read with unknowable results for the salvation of Selim the Second’s
soul, features whimsical foliage-like shapes interlocked above a deep
lapis lazuli background.
But beyond the beauty of the
books on display, their history is also illuminating. Whereas
commentators frequently describe modern Turkey as torn by a rivalry
between secularism and Islamism, this exhibit inadvertently reveals the
complex ways in which the two ideologies always co-existed. In Turkey,
as elsewhere, religion has always been important to even the most
secular governments, and power remains important to even the most
religious.
The Smithsonian website offers
a set of interactive maps showing the “long-distance travels” that brought the books in the
exhibit from the diverse cities where they were first created to the
Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, where they now reside full time.
“Ottoman sultans, queens, and viziers acquired some of the most precious
[Korans]… through purchase, gift, or war booty,” the curators explain,
then “endowed these cherished works to public and religious institutions
to express personal piety and power and to secure prestige.”
For anyone interested in piety and power in contemporary Turkey, the
more recent history of these holy books, leading up to their current
presence in Washington, is equally telling. In the twentieth and
twenty-first centuries, as in Ottoman times, the ownership,
transportation, and display of famous Korans continue to demonstrate
everything from allegiance and modernity to national pride.
In
the late nineteenth century, the leaders of the Ottoman state saw their
once vast empire being eaten away by nationalist rebellions and
European land-grabs. To stem these losses,
Sultan Abdulhamid II
sought to strengthen the empire through a combination of
centralization, modernization, and Islamic piety. At the same time as
the government built new railroads and telegraph lines to hold the
empire together, Abdulhamid highlighted his role as
Caliph
in order to win the loyalty of his Muslim subjects. Building a stronger
state and seeking enhanced religious legitimacy sometimes went hand in
hand. In the early 1900s, for example, Abdulhamid began construction of a
railway stretching from Istanbul to Mecca. In Ottoman rhetoric, the
project served as a way of facilitating the transport of pious pilgrims
to Islam’s holy city. But, as Americans may know best from
Lawrence of Arabia, the railroad was also intended to help the empire exert military force in far-flung and possibly rebellious provinces as well.
So
where do the Korans come in? In 1908, revolutionary Ottoman military
officers, known as the “Young Turks,” took control of the empire.
Leaving the Sultan in power as a figurehead, they continued his
state-building policies, but with an added emphasis on Turkish
nationalism and secular modernization. Several years after coming to
power, this new government set out to collect the finest Korans in the
empire—still in the possession of the various mosques, tombs, and
religious foundations to which previous sultans had donated them—for
display in a new museum in the imperial capital.
The
creation of this collection, whose highlights are now at the
Smithsonian, was both an act of secular state-building and of public
piety. In the most literal sense, the state was seizing control of
important religious objects and taking them out of the hands of
religious institutions. Collecting important objects of all sorts in
national museums was also understood as the kind of thing governments
had to do if they wanted to be modern, civilized, and European. But at
the same time, this effort was presented as a celebration of the
empire’s Islamic identity, and the newly created Museum of Islamic
Foundations was opened with an elaborate ceremony attended by
Sheikh-ul-Islam Urguplu Hayri Efendi, the head of the Ottoman religious
establishment.
Following the Ottomans’ defeat in World War I,
Mustafa Kemal Ataturk
rebuilt what survived of the empire’s government and territory as the
Republic of Turkey. The ideology of Ataturk’s new state was now even
more focused on Turkish national identity and less focused on religion,
but in the government’s approach to displaying religious art, there was
continuity as well as change.
Istanbul’s Museum of Islamic Foundations quickly became the Museum of
Turkish and Islamic Works. The new name brought an added emphasis on
Turkishness, but Islam was, quite literally, still there. As Ataturk
worked to make Turkey more secular, decorated Ottoman Korans became, in
official rhetoric,
evidence of Turkish artistic genius
rather than of Islamic piety. But at the same time, this new language
nonetheless offered a way for the new regime, and some of its more pious
members, to continue to pay homage to the ongoing role of religion in
the new country’s identity.